28 Jan '11, 10pm

A dish called yu sheng

Scowling middle-aged waitresses with beehive hairdos pushing steaming baskets of dim sum across the sprawling dining floor, mouldy-looking carpeted floors, and weather-beaten curtains. These charming sights still greet you when you step into Red Star Restaurant at Chin Swee Road today. But what really keeps three generations of customers going back to Red Star - started by the Four Heavenly Kings of the culinary world in '60s Singapore - is the familiar food. Little wonder that, since two of the surviving kings, Mr Sin Leong, 83, and Mr Hooi Kok Wai, 73, still go back every day to keep a watchful eye in the kitchens. Occasionally, they even hit the stoves themselves when old-time customers request special dishes. Over at Lai Wah Restaurant, the first restaurant where the Fab Four's creation, yu sheng, was served, the owners, too, have a similar insistence about keeping wit...

Full article: http://www.todayonline.com/Singapore/EDC110129-0000195/A-...

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