18 Apr '13, 2am

Understated flair, untamed fare – The Ledbury in London. Review by Brandon.

Understated flair, untamed fare – The Ledbury in London. Review by Brandon.

Besides the occasional cheese and vegetable, chef Graham doesn’t venture too far from his current home country for inspiration. Sam, the excellent head waiter, was almost apologetic when he told us that the brilliant mustard-coloured leek that came with our grilled turbot (pictured below) was not from the United Kingdom, as is normally the case, but from France, due to issues with the crop quality at the time. He was less remorseful when he presented me a plate of medium-rare Berkshire muntjac daubed with a sauce of blood-red rhubarb. “You know Bambi? Well, that’s the exact breed of deer this is,” he told me, not without a slightly worrying hint of glee. I felt like an unpardonable carnivore as I wolfed down the thick, juicy ovals; a feeling compounded by the rather accusing eyes of K, who had ordered the vegetarian tasting menu. Nevertheless, it was a great unusual dish, ...

Full article: http://chubbyhubby.net/travel/understated-flair-untamed-f...

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